Thursday, January 12, 2012

spain, tango and old people


I couldn’t help but notice the amount of old people walking the streets in Spain. Going shopping, buying fruits, having coffee, or simply taking a leisurely afternoon stroll, gossiping, through some of the busiest streets and plazas.  Women are often seen strolling hand-in-hand or arm-in-arm, whether they be mothers, daughters, grandchildren or friends.  I’ve found the same for men, proudly walking with their hands clasped behind their back and even arm-in-arm. They are everywhere and I mean everywhere.

You will also find them always dressed in their Sunday best; men in suits, collared shirts under sweater vests and polished leather shoes while the women are in their tweed blazers and skirts, complete with accessories and their hair in perfectly wound curls.  And the pantyhose, always in their pantyhose.  They very much still tend to their personal appearance and take pride in dressing up and looking as classically chic as they always have.

They’re out in public on a daily basis and very much a part of a social community.  And they don’t seem to be bothered mingling in with the younger generation, spending afternoons in the busiest parts of town, fighting through the energetic crowd in the speed of… well, slow.  Traffic-stopping slow, but still, they are out there, on the move. Quite a contrast to that of the elderly community in the states, where you will find them mostly outside of the city center.

Perhaps one of my favorites is meeting Javier (or possibly Xavier since he’s Catalan) and his group of salsa dancing friends at Plaça Catalunya.  Every Friday afternoons, you will find them posting up shop alongside storefronts, with a band, playing live music from salsa, bossanova, samba, tango and more.  People, old and young, tourist and locals, gather around them to listen to them play or watch them dance and pick their partners from the crowd.  Which is exactly what Xavier did.  While casually moving his hips to the music, he reached out his hand and asked me to dance with him.  And so I did. 

He was slick in his plaid sportscoat, silk tie, argyle socks and leather dancing shoes. We danced, he spun me around, made small talk in Spanish, asked me what I was doing in Barcelona, and at the same time, gave me tips on how to tango.  That it’s a passionate dance, una danza muy suave, and kept reminding me, despacio, slow.  He told me that they’re there every Fridays and to come back again next Friday… same time, same place.  I feel like he’s used this pick-up line before.  This isn’t his first dance.

He was adorable along with his group of friends.... the liveliest group of golden-agers I’ve seen.  I regret not having my camera every time I saw them.  

Now, my close friends are probably laughing as they read this since the butt of their jokes has always been me and old men.  What can I say…. I have a soft spot for seniors.  In that case, it looks like Spain is where I need to be! ;)


[all eyes on futbol... including mine]


[comparing their shopping finds]












[a woman in each arm... what a lucky man]




[everyone, hand in hand]


Monday, January 9, 2012

i fell in love in spain

So just like that, I wake up and suddenly, I'm wrapped up in a down jacket, surrounded by bratwursts instead of tapas, I have a mug of hot wine in my hands instead of a cold glass of tinto de verano and people are greeting me with "halo" instead of "hola."  I am definitely not in Spain anymore.

And get this... it is now 2012?!  Imagine that!

Barcelona seems to be but a distant memory now when it really has only been a month since I left.  Things seem to change with just a snap of your fingers.  And the older we get, the faster time flies.    I'm sure you all can share the same sentiment that life just happens way too fast.  Especially when you're jumping from one flight to the next, catching the next bus or train, flipping thru and collecting maps like receipts.  My life in 2011 seems all but a blur...

And just when I’m starting to settle in and really get a feel for Barcelona, I had to pack up and leave again. I could easily see myself building a life in Barca for the many reasons that beautiful city has to offer.   Way too many reasons to write about but for memory's sake, here's (almost) everything in a list and photos of why I fell in love with Barcelona.

:: Mediterranean weather.  Sunshine makes me a one happy girl.
:: Traditional meets cosmopolitan with a dash of bohemian vibe.
:: Tapas, tapas and more tapas.
:: My love/hate relationship with the Spanish siesta.
:: The energy, the people, the culture.
:: Best chai tea I've ever had (thanks to Ross and Lindsay) at Caj Chai in Born.  Their Choco Chai is to die for.
:: El Borne - a treasure trove of boutiques, artisan shops and quirky bars.
:: Living in Barri Gótic, the Gothic Quarter, and walking through small winding alleyways with medieval buildings.
:: Mine and Cassandra's affinity for gelato at  Gelaaati! de Marco.  Dark chocolate rice milk gelato and coffee soy gelato... a lactose-intolerant's serving of heaven in a cup.  
:: Morning run through Barceloneta and running as fast as I can away from the crepe stands with that dangerous scent of Nutella.
:: Patatas bravas with the salsa brava sauce and Tortilla Española, my go-to staples.
:: Burning off patatas bravas by walking to just about anywhere in the city.
:: Throwing elbows to get inside Can Paixano for some 0,98 cavas.  Totally worth the fight.
:: Afternoon glass of tinto de verano.
:: Bo de B, the best 4 euros you can spend on lunch or even dinner.  Think Subway concept but with your choice of fresh chicken, beef, or pork, grilled to order and topped with generous servings of fresh veggies.  
:: Gaudi all over the city.
:: Charming plazas and cafes in the Gracia neighborhood.
:: Peaceful, scenic climb up Montjüic.
:: My salsa dancing partners - stylishly dressed grandpas with their band of street performers - playing live salsa music at Plaça de Catalunya every Friday nights.
:: Modernist and medieval architecture all over the city. 
:: Graffiti on store front shutters.
:: Finding cute and charming cafés tucked in hidden alleys.
:: Being greeted good morning by our favorite Doner guy everytime we pass by... morning, noon or even at night.  Doesn't really matter the time of day, it's always a good morning!
:: Being greeted "hola, guapa" by sly Spanish men.
:: A sunny afternoon spent at Parc Ciutadellla.
:: How the city comes even more alive by dinner time, which is sometime after 10 pm.
:: Mojitos with tequila and brown sugar.
:: My god-sent Barcelona friends Brittany, Marta and Cesar.


[store front graffitis]







[one of my favorite cafés, en aparte]

[lillipep - another cute café in born]

[an artisan book binding shop]


[performers at Barceloneta]

[el born]


[random alley in born]


[la loca rambla]


[just outside my doorstep in barri gotico]


[gaudi]


[I will be back one day, Barca]







Tuesday, December 13, 2011

they call him sex (aka el niño de las pinturas)


Because I haven’t been the best at writing, editing and uploading photos while I have been on the go, I’m going to make up for it now that I’m taking a little break and unwinding here in Germany.  For me to get into the mode of writing, I need a certain type of atmosphere to really get me going.  I am very much influenced by my surroundings. The place, the sounds, the lights, the smell, the mood, the people – all that stimulates the senses contribute to the inspiration.

And because I’m feeling a surge of inspiration after my visit in Granada, I’m going to work my way backwards and write about my experience in this small charming city.  Specifically in this post, my time spent with Raul, famously known as El Niño de las Pinturas, the graffiti artist (or "Sex, El Niño de las Pinturas" his pseudonym as a writer). 

I met Raul in Barcelona after meeting a group of artists who were in town for Art Battles, an international painting competition that originated in NYC.  The people involved and the event really peaked my interest since I was a part of a similar show in Denver called B.A.M. (Beauty, Art and Music) - a live art show showcasing the works of a dear friend, Jay Paul Apodaca.  It’s no surprise to me that I happened to meet this group of artists in Barcelona. I guess you could leave it to the laws of attraction…

And it just so happened that I had chosen Granada as one of my stops in Spain.  I connected with him on facebook, hoping he’d be free to spend a day with me and my two other traveling friends and show us around from a local’s point of view.  Instead, we received an offer to stay with him and without hesitation, I eagerly accepted his very kind gesture.  We were now even more excited to see Granada and to see his infamous paintings around town.  One of his friends described Raul as “the King of Granada” and I would soon later find out why.

We arrived in Raul’s Realejo neighborhood in the evening yet, in the darkness, illuminated under street lights, I recognized his work on the walls and store fronts along Calle de los Molinos and Calle de Santiago.  Even the cab driver knew exactly who I was talking about, “Si, si, si!  El Niño de… si, yo se!”  It was not the first time I heard someone react that way after describing El Niño’s murals.  The cab driver even got out of the car to shake his hand and to commend him on his work.  And we would later see that almost each person we encountered on the street knew him.  Like a mayor, he would call out their names with a nod, then extend a handshake followed by a quick conversation, “ey tío, que tal?!”  You can hear the humility and playfulness in his voice, the same tone I heard as he rejected his friend’s ‘King of Granada’ comment.  “No man, no way.  I’m not even the king of my own house… my cat is the king of my house!”

El Niño de las Pinturas, The Boy of the Paintings, is the name he’s known for in the streets.  But he’s much more than the paintings.  He’s a child of poetry, of words, of music, of the arts.  Every surface in his home is his canvas; Granada’s Realejo neighborhood is his museum.  Cement walls and decayed building facades is a medium for him to bring life and beauty in this world.  Like any artist, full of imagination and creativity, everything he touches turns into works of art. 





El Niño’s graffiti style is easily recognizable; unique in his own right.  They are, most often, of children but there are also of women and of the elderly. Though whatever character he decides to paint, he captures a certain emotion and so invites the viewer to connect with the painting.  I see it in their eyes, with a contemplative gaze that speaks a slight sense of melancholy.  But most distinctively, he paints compelling social messages interlaced within the lines of the figures that naturally blends with the entire composition.  Messages that engage the observer in an evocative dialogue with the character and elicits wistful sentiments of youth, love, hope and sadness.  To discover a feeling, a reaction, in a painting is powerful. And the impact that his paintings has in the streets that captivates a wide audience is remarkable.  

It seems that his neighborhood embraces, and at the very least, appreciates, his works of art.  Local businesses commissions him to paint their interior walls, garage doors, and display his art on menus and business cards.  I've read that he was also commissioned by the Tarragona City Hall to do this massive and impressive mural for the new civic center for children, using the theme "youngsters and human rights."  Contrary to the general public's opinion about graffiti, his work is neither seen as "vandalism" nor is it considered defacing public property.  I think it's actually quite the opposite.  It’s poetry and art that brings life to an otherwise colorless, grey cement wall and inspiration to those who connect with it.  

quien juega con nuestras hijos?
[who plays with our children]
painting of a child holding a video game controller.  photo courtesy of streetartutopia.com



somos mas que las palabras que nos definen
[we are more than the words that define us]

nosotros sueños
[our dreams]


cansado de no encontrar respuesta, decidí cambiar mis preguntas
[tired of not finding answers, i decided to change my questions]


imagina

El Niño de las Pinturas in Tarragona



Walking down Santiago and Molinos with Raul, we encountered tourists taking pictures of his works and people posing next to them.  Funny how they were unaware that the person who created these amazing works of art was walking right past them.  We were with a legend and that realization makes me grateful to have met him.












Incredibly gifted and smart, there’s definitely more to Raul than just his graffiti.  We actually later discovered that he has also published a book called, A Traves del Muro (Through the Wall).  I'd love to find a copy of this book since it also includes some of his best works from the streets of France, Argentina, Venezuela, Holland, Hungary and Belgium. And what he described as "making noises" on his piano was quite the opposite as he played beautiful classical chords, spontaneous in that moment, based on how he was feeling.  But when you talk to him about his art and compliment him on his talent, he responds so modestly and at times, almost seems as if he's embarrassed by the attention. It truly was a pleasure to have had a chance to spend time with him, a gift to see his works in person and so grateful for his generosity.  My trip to Granada wouldn’t have been the same without El Niño.






el niño de las pinturas @ art battles, barcelona



no somos numeros
[we are not numbers]



sin arte, sería la vida sin color


To explore more of El Niño de las Pinturas, visit his website and other links below. Although in Spanish, his manifesto for freedom of expression with graffiti art in Granada is also an interesting read.  Thank goodness for google translate.



All photos belong to i.passionista unless otherwise stated.