Thursday, January 12, 2012

spain, tango and old people


I couldn’t help but notice the amount of old people walking the streets in Spain. Going shopping, buying fruits, having coffee, or simply taking a leisurely afternoon stroll, gossiping, through some of the busiest streets and plazas.  Women are often seen strolling hand-in-hand or arm-in-arm, whether they be mothers, daughters, grandchildren or friends.  I’ve found the same for men, proudly walking with their hands clasped behind their back and even arm-in-arm. They are everywhere and I mean everywhere.

You will also find them always dressed in their Sunday best; men in suits, collared shirts under sweater vests and polished leather shoes while the women are in their tweed blazers and skirts, complete with accessories and their hair in perfectly wound curls.  And the pantyhose, always in their pantyhose.  They very much still tend to their personal appearance and take pride in dressing up and looking as classically chic as they always have.

They’re out in public on a daily basis and very much a part of a social community.  And they don’t seem to be bothered mingling in with the younger generation, spending afternoons in the busiest parts of town, fighting through the energetic crowd in the speed of… well, slow.  Traffic-stopping slow, but still, they are out there, on the move. Quite a contrast to that of the elderly community in the states, where you will find them mostly outside of the city center.

Perhaps one of my favorites is meeting Javier (or possibly Xavier since he’s Catalan) and his group of salsa dancing friends at Plaça Catalunya.  Every Friday afternoons, you will find them posting up shop alongside storefronts, with a band, playing live music from salsa, bossanova, samba, tango and more.  People, old and young, tourist and locals, gather around them to listen to them play or watch them dance and pick their partners from the crowd.  Which is exactly what Xavier did.  While casually moving his hips to the music, he reached out his hand and asked me to dance with him.  And so I did. 

He was slick in his plaid sportscoat, silk tie, argyle socks and leather dancing shoes. We danced, he spun me around, made small talk in Spanish, asked me what I was doing in Barcelona, and at the same time, gave me tips on how to tango.  That it’s a passionate dance, una danza muy suave, and kept reminding me, despacio, slow.  He told me that they’re there every Fridays and to come back again next Friday… same time, same place.  I feel like he’s used this pick-up line before.  This isn’t his first dance.

He was adorable along with his group of friends.... the liveliest group of golden-agers I’ve seen.  I regret not having my camera every time I saw them.  

Now, my close friends are probably laughing as they read this since the butt of their jokes has always been me and old men.  What can I say…. I have a soft spot for seniors.  In that case, it looks like Spain is where I need to be! ;)


[all eyes on futbol... including mine]


[comparing their shopping finds]












[a woman in each arm... what a lucky man]




[everyone, hand in hand]


Monday, January 9, 2012

i fell in love in spain

So just like that, I wake up and suddenly, I'm wrapped up in a down jacket, surrounded by bratwursts instead of tapas, I have a mug of hot wine in my hands instead of a cold glass of tinto de verano and people are greeting me with "halo" instead of "hola."  I am definitely not in Spain anymore.

And get this... it is now 2012?!  Imagine that!

Barcelona seems to be but a distant memory now when it really has only been a month since I left.  Things seem to change with just a snap of your fingers.  And the older we get, the faster time flies.    I'm sure you all can share the same sentiment that life just happens way too fast.  Especially when you're jumping from one flight to the next, catching the next bus or train, flipping thru and collecting maps like receipts.  My life in 2011 seems all but a blur...

And just when I’m starting to settle in and really get a feel for Barcelona, I had to pack up and leave again. I could easily see myself building a life in Barca for the many reasons that beautiful city has to offer.   Way too many reasons to write about but for memory's sake, here's (almost) everything in a list and photos of why I fell in love with Barcelona.

:: Mediterranean weather.  Sunshine makes me a one happy girl.
:: Traditional meets cosmopolitan with a dash of bohemian vibe.
:: Tapas, tapas and more tapas.
:: My love/hate relationship with the Spanish siesta.
:: The energy, the people, the culture.
:: Best chai tea I've ever had (thanks to Ross and Lindsay) at Caj Chai in Born.  Their Choco Chai is to die for.
:: El Borne - a treasure trove of boutiques, artisan shops and quirky bars.
:: Living in Barri Gótic, the Gothic Quarter, and walking through small winding alleyways with medieval buildings.
:: Mine and Cassandra's affinity for gelato at  Gelaaati! de Marco.  Dark chocolate rice milk gelato and coffee soy gelato... a lactose-intolerant's serving of heaven in a cup.  
:: Morning run through Barceloneta and running as fast as I can away from the crepe stands with that dangerous scent of Nutella.
:: Patatas bravas with the salsa brava sauce and Tortilla Española, my go-to staples.
:: Burning off patatas bravas by walking to just about anywhere in the city.
:: Throwing elbows to get inside Can Paixano for some 0,98 cavas.  Totally worth the fight.
:: Afternoon glass of tinto de verano.
:: Bo de B, the best 4 euros you can spend on lunch or even dinner.  Think Subway concept but with your choice of fresh chicken, beef, or pork, grilled to order and topped with generous servings of fresh veggies.  
:: Gaudi all over the city.
:: Charming plazas and cafes in the Gracia neighborhood.
:: Peaceful, scenic climb up Montjüic.
:: My salsa dancing partners - stylishly dressed grandpas with their band of street performers - playing live salsa music at Plaça de Catalunya every Friday nights.
:: Modernist and medieval architecture all over the city. 
:: Graffiti on store front shutters.
:: Finding cute and charming cafés tucked in hidden alleys.
:: Being greeted good morning by our favorite Doner guy everytime we pass by... morning, noon or even at night.  Doesn't really matter the time of day, it's always a good morning!
:: Being greeted "hola, guapa" by sly Spanish men.
:: A sunny afternoon spent at Parc Ciutadellla.
:: How the city comes even more alive by dinner time, which is sometime after 10 pm.
:: Mojitos with tequila and brown sugar.
:: My god-sent Barcelona friends Brittany, Marta and Cesar.


[store front graffitis]







[one of my favorite cafés, en aparte]

[lillipep - another cute café in born]

[an artisan book binding shop]


[performers at Barceloneta]

[el born]


[random alley in born]


[la loca rambla]


[just outside my doorstep in barri gotico]


[gaudi]


[I will be back one day, Barca]